Average Jo: The Bacchus Pub

I have wanted to eat at the Bacchus since I lived here ten years ago, and was not old enough to enter the premises. The curved rafters lie flush to the ceiling, embellished with carved monk heads. Vertical rows of copper mugs (for which a hefty deposit is required, if you wish to drink out of one) line stained-glass images of “Bacchus”, god of merriment. The long wood bar and ample seating, inside and out, give the venue a true pub feel, and they boast a modest, but quality selection of beers and whiskeys, including a decent selection of mid-range Scotches. The only perplexing point of the décor is the bulldog head on the logo…

Opening the menu, I had a hard time finding something to order. I wasn’t in the mood for a burger, but clearly this was a bar-food type of joint. The menu is all over the place, actually, beginning with a selection of “Pub Grub” that ranges from “Shepherd’s Pie” and beef “Pasty” to “Irish Fish Tacos” and “Curry”. I would have pegged it British fare, were it not for the “Italian Beef” and “Stromboli”. The sides are even more diverse, from “Roasted Root Vegetables” to “Mac and Cheese”. A full selection of pizzas further complicate a menu that can’t make up its mind, and the salad choices were generic and over-priced. I found the overall pricing parallel to Philadelphia, which seemed a tad high for Bozeman, Montana. I settled on the “Falafel” sandwich, for $8.50.

Part of me feels I sunk my own raft on this one. Having been married to a Middle-eastern man, my opinion of Mediterranean cuisine is biased to the traditional. I have been fortunate enough to sample some of the best, home-cooked Middle-eastern fare available, thanks to my ex-husband and his sister, both excellent cooks. The dish consisted of three falafel balls on warm pita bread, topped with some sauce, cucumber, and fresh tomato, plus my choice of side. While the pita was fresh and expertly puffed, I found the falafel balls disappointing, at best. Dry, misshapen, and too finely-ground, they were obviously overcooked. The sauce, which claims to be tahini, tasted strongly of mayonnaise. (Those of you who know me, know I hate mayonnaise in almost every incantation, and refuse to eat it willingly unless hidden in potato salad.) I had chosen quinoa-pasta salad as my side, thinking it sounded interesting; it wasn’t. As a pasta salad goes, it was delicious, full of rich vinegar and herb flavors, bits of olives, peppers, and red onion, but the quinoa-pasta was so similar to a multi-grain (and cooked to the same chewy consistency), that it proved more of a novelty than anything else.

The service was pleasant, albeit a little slow. That’s to be expected in the middle of the afternoon, as the bartender is often also dealing with food and beer deliveries, and setting up for dinner. I wasn’t in a rush, and the laid-back professionalism suited me just fine. The beer was cold, my water glass always full, and the barkeep didn’t complain when my brother and his girlfriend joined me and drank only water themselves.

“Would I come back here?” Sure. I did, in fact, go back later that night, to listen to quality live music and drink local micro brew. I would probably even go back to sample the dinner fare. As for a quick lunch, probably not; there’s a great, inexpensive burger down the street at the Hofbrau, which claims an even larger selection of micro brew drafts, and the service there is just as good.

The Bacchus Pub (Inside the Baxter Hotel)
105 West Main Street Bozeman, MT
(406) 522-0079

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