Kite and Key is terribly easy to find. Headed east on Callowhill, it appears as an oasis after blocks of construction and little else. The bar is rumored to be a Canadian pub, though from the inside it looks just like any pub, albeit much cleaner. The space is larger than it looks from the street, and the mirror-lined back wall creates an even larger feel to the room. The smattering of Canadian bar and sports memorabilia tacked to the walls behind the heavy wood bar the only nod to its northern influence. I've arrived ten minutes before they open (11am), but the waitress and bartender (both attractive brunette co-eds) are both agreeable to have me park with a glass of water and wait. I gladly take them up on their offer, as the bright sun shining through a crystal blue sky has the Philadelphia heat set to HOT.
The taps are filled with interesting brews
both foreign and local, and I'm pleased to discover the bartender has both a
personality and an opinion, two things I commonly find lacking in staff notable
for their attractiveness. She offers some intelligent insight and I settle on
the Monk's Flemish Sour ($5.50, 10oz), an old favorite brewed for Monk's Ale
House by the Van Steenberge Brewery outside Ghent, Belgium.
Several regulars trickle in as I peruse the menu. Its
offerings fall somewhere between pub fare and luncheonette. I'm pleased to see
both "Fried Pickles" and an "Artisanal Cheese Plate" on the
appetizer menu, while I'm less enticed by "Buffalo Mussels". The
sandwich menu contains a smattering of the usual: house burger, steak sandwich,
pulled pork... I order the "Veggie Burger" ($10) upon the waitress'
recommendation. I had hardly
noticed it at the bottom of the page, but when when it arrived I realized it's
a gem on the menu. The burger is deep-fried and split open to accommodate a
mound of shredded cabbage, shitake mushrooms and carrots with melted Swiss
cheese, then alfalfa sprouts are piled on top with horseradish mayo on a
multi-grain roll. The salad I substituted for French fries was lightly dressed
with something fresh and herby, and came at no additional charge.
I left just as the lunch crowd was rolling
in, large tables of men and women in business attire instantly keeping the
staff busy. "Would I come back here?" You better believe it. The
service was informed, tidy, and efficient. My water glass was always full, and
that veggie burger still has my mouth watering. This little
corner establishment may not know quite what it wants to be, but what it is, is
good.
Kite and Key
1836 Callowhill Street
Philadelphia, PA
(215) 568-1818
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