It’s crazy flying coast to coast, especially when you’re gaining
three hours in the process. I left my house on the east coast at 6:30 in the
morning, flew backwards in time through Denver, and arrived in Portland at just
after two in the afternoon, not having eaten breakfast or lunch, my body craving
early dinner on Philly time. When I stepped off the plane I was famished.
The purpose of this trip was two-fold: reconnect with old friends,
and eat my face off, both of which began in the bright and sunny Bollywood
Theater in Northeast Portland. The Oregonian boasts The Bollywood Theater as
their “Rising Star of 2013”; they’re not exaggerating. There are
floor-to-ceiling windows displaying tinted glass bottles and objects crafted
out of metal, all the sparkly shiny things I hope for when one is representing a
country with so much cultural richness and colorful saturation. 
My friend, Nathan, has been to India, which was included in his
regaling of tales I’ve missed over the last ten years, while sipping a gin and
tonic “in honor of my visit”. I chose a tasty and well-crafted Pimm’s Cup with ginger
syrup, cucumber and lemon juices, all of which I assume to be made in-house. It’s
no small feat to impress two former bartenders, but we both marveled at how
fresh and balanced were both drinks. And at $7, that Pimm’s Cup was a bargain.
I would find that wallet-friendly pricing all over Portland, and
it continued through the menu with an enormous plate of Bhel Puri for $5.50, accurately
described as “A refreshing snack of potatoes, vegetables, onion, cilantro,
peanuts, spices and puffed rice with green and tamarind chutneys”. I was
immensely curious about the addition of puffed rice in this dish, but found the
light pop of texture whimsical. A zip of citrus created a party in my mouth,
and I’m not ashamed to say I devoured it.
Nathan ordered Pork Vindaloo, listed under “Small Plates”, which
it definitely was not. They describe this as “A Portuguese influence dish from
Goa. Pork braised with red chiles, garlic and vinegar. Served with buttered
rolls”…all that rich, spicy goodness for a mere $8.50. I never pass up Paratha,
a layered Indian flatbread with ghee ($2.00), nor could I possibly have Indian
food without the traditional Trio of Chutneys served with pappadums (also
$2.00). Every Indian restaurant has some version of this trio, but this was the
best I’ve ever had, the final chutney dazzling me with sweetness and raisins. Even the pappadum was a stand-out, with smoky grill notes on its crispy bubble-pocked surface.
Something else that would prove a theme all over Portland is
counter service. Like many of the mid-price range restaurants we visited, Bollywood
insists you order at the counter and collect your own water and utensils from a
station off to the side. A giant steel fusto and hard plastic cups enforce the
ecological responsibility Portland is known for (the city composts). And while
I missed having ice in my water, I couldn’t deny the luxury of having an
endless supply of the liquid at my fingertips, without the necessity of hailing
a waiter.
It will be no surprise to the reader that "Would I come back
here?" yields an emphatic “Yes”. My only challenge will be branching out
and ordering different food on my next visit, since my first selection is
already my favorite.
Bollywood Theater
2039 NE Alberta
Portland, OR
(971) 200-4711
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